The Best of Morocco

Picture Morocco and you probably imagine camel rides in the Sahara Desert; perhaps the chaotic labyrinth of markets in Marrakech filled with vibrant colour, life and pungent spices; or maybe cities filled with history and incredible architecture that has remained unchanged for centuries. There is no doubt that these are all key elements of Morocco, and you absolutely must experience them all. But that is not all that this incredible country has to offer. If you want to scratch below the surface and see a little more of the real Morocco, then read on.

Stay in a traditional Riad in Marrakech

This city is on every Moroccan itinerary and for good reason. Over-flowing with life, colour, the smell of pungent spices, chaotic souks, and peaceful hidden garden oases, this city will live long in your memory. Get lost in the labyrinth of market laneways. Be overwhelmed with the sights, smells and flavours of the famous Jemaa el-Fna. Explore the ruins of El Badi palace, and rest weary feet in the Manara gardens.

This is the beginning of a good itinerary, but first, you need a place to stay. Skip the western-style hotels and opt for a traditional Riad. With options from USD$3, I splashed out and spent USD$7 at Riad Dia..and of course the sky is the limit. Once you walk through the ancient doorway nestled in one of the tiny cobbled streets, you will not regret it. Filled with colour, art and history, this will be your haven from the chaos of the streets outside.

And while you’re here…

While you’re in Marrakech, you will of course want to explore the famous Jemaa-el-Fna. This is the heart of this great city, and is alive with activity 24 hours a day. You will find story-tellers, circus acts, snake charmers, fortune-tellers, “dentists” that I would most definitely NOT trust, and a host of other indiscernible things. Early evening is when you will find day time stalls giving way to a host of street food vendors preparing for the rush of dinner time. Delight your tastebuds with the kebabs of all kinds, fish chermoula, harira soup or a tagine rich with delicious Moroccan spices.

Spanning in all directions from Jemaa-el-Fnaa is a labyrinth of pathways leading off into the chaotic market laneways. Artisan traditions are very strong here and if you enjoy shopping and bartering, you will find days of happiness here. Jewellery, ceramics, copper, brass, carpets, enamel work, weaving and more – skills passed down through the generations and each with a specific section of the market for you to take delight in.

Indulge your senses with a Hammam

This ancient Roman tradition has taken on a spiritual aspect in Morocco and for many is a weekly custom. Comprising of a series of saunas and baths and some VERY vigorous scrubbing, you will need to leave your inhibitions at the door, but this was one of my favourite experiences while I was in Marrakech. This is the perfect antidote to the craziness of the markets outside, and I emerged with a new sense of calm, feeling cleansed in body, mind and spirit. From here, you can settle in at one of the countless rooftop restaurants, to watch the chaos unfold below while you indulge in the incredible flavours of Morocco.

Stop by Fes on your way to the Blue City

The political capital of Morocco on and off for over one thousand years, Fes is said by some to be the cultural, religious and intellectual heart of the country. This city welcomed Jews and Muslims fleeing Spain after the fall of Alhambra in 1492 and embraced the diversity of knowledge, skills and craftsmanship that they brought with them. Citizens of Fes are intensely proud, as well they should be, of this beautiful city and it’s rich colourful history which still feels very much alive.

The oldest university in the world, the University of Karaouine, was founded here in 859AD and subsequently became one of the leading spiritual and educational centres in the Muslim world. With such historical cites still very much in use today, the city is described by some as a living museum. In addition, it also boasts many intricately decorated palaces, mosques and city gates, providing visitors with unexpected pockets of both beauty, craftsmanship and human ingenuity around every corner. The Golden Gates of the Royal Palace might be the most photographed example of this in the city, but the Bab Bouilloud, often referred to as the Blue Gate is just as iconic.

Fes – a living history book

You may well feel like you have walked into a living history book here, and indeed life here goes on very much like it did hundreds of years ago. Donkey’s laden with goods still push their way through the tiny streets, and students still study the Koran and discuss philosophy in the utopian garden courtyards tucked away in the maze of tiny streets. The French influence was minimal here during their occupation and the foreign population in the medina is still small, leaving the residents here the proud protectors of Moroccan traditions and values.

Also home to the largest medina in northern Africa, you could spend days, or even weeks, letting yourself get lost in the tiny alleys and the thousands of tiny stalls within them. Here you should make sure to spend some time, these streets have remained almost unchanged by the course of time. Browse amongst the woodcarvings, carpets, jewellery and embroidery for the perfect souvenir to take home, and you are also sure to meet some if the city’s wonderfully colourful people, skilled craftsmen and feel for a moment like you are apart of the living tapestry of the city.

Stay in the magic Sahara Desert

This might well be on everyone’s itinerary, but for good reason. The Sahara Desert really is incredible. It pays to research your tours to avoid some of the issues that I had (like being stranded between tour groups for 5 hours!) but it is definitely worth making the effort to come here. Actually, I think if you visit only one place in Morocco, it needs to be here. I don’t think there is another place that contains the lifeblood of this country in quite the same way. Whether you choose to embark on a long and slow journey by car or by camel; or accelerate the adventure with some “surfing” or “4×4” action in the dunes, this landscape will stay with you. And with ready access from Marrakech, even if you only have a few days, this place is within reach.

I was so captivated by the Sahara Desert and the incredible people that have made this formidable place their home. You can read more about this incredible place in my separate post on the magic Sahara Desert here. Spending a night sleeping amid the sand dunes under the milkyway is an experience that will stay with you forever.

Enjoy the blues in Chefchaouen

Also known as the ‘blue city’, or ‘Chaouen’, Chefchaouen is one of the prettiest in Morocco. A breath of fresh air after the chaos of the larger cities, this was my favourite in Morocco, second only to the incredible Sahara Desert. Nestled in the Rif mountains in the north west of the country, things move at a slower pace here.

The iconic blue mixed in the whitewash here, gives the Kasbah a blue tinge and makes the cobblestone streets a dreamy quality that will have you captivated from the moment you arrive. Said by some to be a symbol of Jewish solidarity after many rebuilt their lives here after fleeing the Nazis in the 1930s. Others say the blue symbolises the sky and heaven, serving as a constant reminder to lead a spiritual life. Whatever the reason, the shades of blue permeating the city make these streets a pleasure to explore.

Drink mint tea with a local in Chaouen

After waking at sunrise to the haunting prayers of the city, the tone is set for the day. While you will still find the familiar chaotic elements of the markets, there is a beautiful innocence also. The abandoned Spanish Mosque on the hill offers a spectacular view across the pretty city, and a peaceful place to reflect.

Walking back, let yourself get lost in the tiny streets, and make the time to talk to the stall holders. Of course they want to sell you something (that is their job after all!) but here I noticed something else. There was a genuine desire to meet new people. They want to practice their English with you, find out more about where and how you live, and share with you something of their lives and culture too. If you’re lucky, they may invite you in for mint tea and if you take the chance you will discover the beauty in these wonderful people.

In my mind, this is the best that travelling has to offer, this is an experience that money simply cannot buy. Here you are scratching below the surface and getting to understand the true nature of the people that made this incredible place what it is.