Sarajevo..why you need to go

A photo memory popped up on my phone the other day, informing me that it was a year ago that I was in Sarajevo. The memories came flooding back and honestly, I need to tell the world how amazing this city really is. After a couple of months exploring the ruggedly beautiful Italian and Croatian coastlines (read more about that here), honestly I struggled to tear myself away from the water..but I am so glad I did. My next stop was Sarajevo, Bosnia. I had absolutely no idea what to expect, but it is safe to say this city and it’s people blew me away. I hope that this inspires you to make the trip and experience the magic for yourself.

This city was almost totally decimated by war only 25 years ago, but has an unbreakable spirit. Of hundreds of cities I’ve been to, this is one that really surprised me and left a permanent impression. Sarajevo was seiged and bombed relentlessly for 4 years in the early nineties, with thousands of people tortured and killed, and mass graves are still being uncovered. I encourage you to visit the museums to understand the history, but the people are the real reason you need to come. These people, who have every reason to be hateful and angry, are making it their business to do the opposite. They are welcoming of all religions and backgrounds. They are determined that this stain in their past will not blight their future. The spirit of tolerance, love of the arts, music and culture can be felt everywhere. Truly, this city is an inspiration.

When should you go?

August is definitely the time to go if you can. I got lucky and arrived on the first day of the Sarajevo film festival which runs for one week every year in August (check out www.sff.ba/en for the dates). I cannot recommend being here for this enough – please do it if you can! Summer temperatures can get up to 30 degrees, but if you can handle the heat, this is a time when the city really comes alive. Crowds come from all over Europe, creating an atmosphere of excitement that you can’t escape. And there is a local sense of pride that is touching in the context of the war these people refused to crush them.

What to do while you’re in town

Do a free walking tour

This is hands down the best way to get oriented in this city, and with groups such as “Meet Bosnia” running free walking tours daily you can easily fit this into your schedule. As is the case with many European cities, these tours are run by trained volunteers working for tips. However, with the atrocities of the Yugoslav war still well within living memory of the residents here you will get a truly unique and personal perspective on this period of time. You will see the sights of course, including the Latin Bridge where the Archduke Franz Ferdinand was famously shot and killed in 1914 starting the first world war. And you will also come away with a sense of the human suffering, determination and resilience that makes these people who they are.

See a film at the film festival

If you can, visit while this festival is on in August and make sure you see at least one film. Every year there are dozens of films previewed here, and it’s a great opportunity to see a random new film in the national theatre, or in one of the temporarily created open-air cinemas set in local squares with locals watching on from their living room windows. Regardless of the film you see, the atmosphere will make it worthwhile. And with plenty of bars open late, live music in the streets and a town full of people ready to party, you’re bound to have a great night.

Eat Burek at Buregdzinica Sac

Actually you can find delicious Burek everywhere here, but this place buried in the old town is brilliant. Here they still use the traditional method; slow cooking in a circular pan buried in the coals of the fire and it was my personal favourite. The Bosnian’s love their meat so Burek is most commonly made of minced beef along with secret herbs and spices. But you can also get a potato, spinach, or even pumpkin versions which are less traditional, but equally delicious. Whatever your filling, it’s then wrapped in delicate homemade flaky filo pastry, and twisted like a sausage into a circular shape before being plunged into the coals to bake. Make sure you try it with the yoghurt dressing, and then enjoy this tasty (if not exactly healthy) meal for just a few dollars before rolling yourself away to digest.

Buy a piece of Sarajevo’s Turkish history in Bascarsija

Nestled in a few bustling streets in the old town, the Bascarsija is an old Turkish bazaar. It is left over from the 15th century, albeit much smaller now than it was then. Complete with all the traditional Turkish teapots, copper plates, lanterns and colourful carpets, here you can buy products directly from the artists. This is the perfect place to pick a souvenir to decorate your home with.

Visit the Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide

This may not be a light-hearted way to spend a few hours, but wow is it worth it. I actually went back a second day because I couldn’t get through it all the first time. Run by volunteers, the Sarajevo Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide is a collection of personal histories and pictures detailing the atrocities of the seige of Sarajevo. Be warned, the content is graphic. The crimes committed were fuelled by hatred and racism. But the museum exists to ensure these atrocities are not forgotten. And to remind us all that to prevent them happening again, tolerance and human compassion are the only way forward. This is a truly sombre experience that showcases the incredible resilience of the Sarajevo people that make this city so amazing.

Explore the ruins of the Olympic Bobsled Track

For some more light-hearted entertainment, take the funicular up the hill and walk through the remains of the bobsled track. Leftover from the 1984 winter Olympics, the track is now littered with bullet holes from the war in the 90s. While the track has definitely seen better days, it is home now to some cool graffiti and is a truly unique piece of history. Don’t forget to take a few pics of the incredible view while you’re up there – you can see the whole of Sarajevo spilling out across the valley in front of you! Once you’re done exploring, you can take the funicular back down and reward yourself with an ice cold Sarajevski – the favourite local beer.

Where to stay while you’re in town

There are loads of great places to stay in Sarajevo, but I have to recommend Hostel Kucha, because they were just so lovely! I arrived super early in the morning after travelling for 17 hours on a bus from the Croatian coast, and I hadn’t been able to book online due to a technical issue so it wasn’t really the best start. But I found my way to the hostel and was relieved to find they had one bed left (they were almost fully booked due to the film festival starting). From the very first moment the hospitality was fautless – they let me store my things until the bed was available and let me have breakfast with them free of charge. The breakfasts were great by the way – every day a new home made assortment of local specialties and all delicious. Every single person who worked there was friendly and eager to help..it was really evident that this is a labour of love for them. They just want everyone to love their city as much as they do. It’s a bit of a hike up the hill, but totally worth it in my opinion.